On one of our recent trips to Seoul, we tried three different kalguksu (칼국수) or knife-cut noodle restaurants. For those unfamiliar, Kalguksu is a comforting dish of handmade, knife-cut wheat noodles served in a rich, warm broth, typically garnished with vegetables. There are several versions of Kalguksu, including dak (chicken) kalguksu, seafood kalguksu, and perilla seed kalguksu.
On our trip, we tried kalguksu from Myeongdong Kyoja (of Michelin-fame), Gohyang Kalguksu (of Netflix-fame), and Namhae Sikdang (of local fame) — all family-owned. In terms of which served the best kalguksu, Namhae Sikdang received the most votes out of our group, but you can’t go wrong by going to any (or all) of these restaurants on your visit:
Myeongdong Kyoja is probably the kalguksu restaurant most featured on tourists’ social media, partially because of its Michelin recognition (having earned the Bib Gourmand designation multiple times) and partially because it is located in one of the most touristy places in Seoul: Myeongdong. But, having been around for over 50 years, it’s also well-known amongst locals and a place of nostalgia for some. There are two locations (both in Myeongdong), and the menu only has four items: kalguksu, mandu (dumplings), bibimguksu (spicy mixed noodles) and a seasonal dish, kongguksu (cold soybean soup noodles). The most popular items on the menu are the kalguksu and the mandu. As for the kalguksu, Myeongdong Kyoja’s is made with chicken broth and topped with dumplings, ground meat and zucchini. The broth is thick and rich in flavor, and the dish overall pairs well with the restaurant’s signature (garlicky) kimchi. I personally think the kalguksu had more flavor 10 years ago, but it’s still a fairly reliable joint and favored by many tourists and locals alike. The place can get packed and the queue can get long, so I would try to go outside of prime lunch/dinner hours.
Gohyang Kalguksu is located in Gwangjang Market and gained worldwide attention after being featured in Netflix's Street Food: Asia. Of the vendors showcased in the same Seoul episode, I believe the audience became the most drawn to Gohyang Kalguksu because of the underdog story of its owner, Yoonsun Cho. Throughout the episode, Cho recounts how she went from being a stay-at-home mom to becoming a Gwangjang Market vendor to get her family out of the massive debt her husband had accumulated. Initially, she wanted to quit because, as a new vendor, she faced jealousy, bullying and cutthroat pettiness from the existing vendors. But she was motivated to save her family and persevered. Despite the struggles that could have made her bitter and the newfound Netflix fame that could have made her smug, she exudes gratitude and humility. When we visited, she acknowledged and thanked as many patrons as she could for visiting her stall. I wanted to like her kalguksu as much as I admire her tenacity, but even with the sauce (provided separately so you can season your noodles to your liking), I found the kalguksu to be lacking and underwhelming. I wouldn’t necessarily say it was bad, but it certainly did not live up to the hype (though enough raving reviews would disagree). That said, I did enjoy the mul-naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles) and would recommend that over the kalguksu.
Namhae Sikdang is located in Namdaemun Market's Kalguksu Alley, which is literally a narrow alley of ~15 vendors selling pretty much the same items: kalguksu, naengmyeon (buckwheat noodles) and boribap (basically bibimbap with barley rice). Supposedly there isn't much difference in the quality of the offerings of each stall, so the recommendation is to take any available seat. That said, I had already planned to try out Namhae Sikdang because it was recommended by Korean foodie blogs and seemed to be the most popular amongst locals. We each got the kalguksu, bibim naengmyeon and boribap combo for 8,000 KRW per set, which also came with Korean miso soup and kimchi. The kalguksu had more flavor than the kalguksu at Gohyang, and I preferred its lightness to the heavier Myeongdong Kyoja broth. For what it’s worth, there were four of us on this quest for the best kalguksu, and two voted in favor of Namhae, one for Gohyang and one for Myeongdong Kyoja. So, overall, it probably just comes down to personal preference. Note though, the street food in Kalguksu Alley and Gwangjang Market are street food after all, so if you are looking for a “Grade A” restaurant, you might prefer Myeongdong Kyoja of the three.
